DIY side table from a Luggage carrier
If you are in salvaged furniture, DIY end table is perfect for you! He was an old Luggage carrier and door.
We’re always in prime DIY time, my friends – and as a result, I have the man Podgers my Christmas gifts to be chained back. I’m just kidding! I love David and Walter, and I want to thank you both, that you are so amazing. I’m a happy blogger.
This week, David has a Luggage rack and turned it into a DIY side table (with other salvaged goodies such as a Cabinet door). Pretty cool, isn't it? Let I’m going to to tell him all about it – so continue to the step-by-step instructions directly from David.
I have some random bits and bobs that I bought at the Habitat for Humanity resale Store – an old Luggage rack ($4), and an old Cabinet door ($1). had I decided I could be with you, to be a useful and versatile DIY-end-table.
DIY side table from a Luggage carrier
Collect These Supplies
Mod hodgepodge gloss
form (for the sides of the drawer – any form part to do with me, it was a simple lattice molding from Home Depot)
2 pieces of scrap wood
The first thing I wanted to do was to set up, they remain at the bottom of the tray, so that the rest on the Luggage rack and on the spot. So I lay the Cabinet door face down and put the rack on top (after removing the fabric strips that hold open the rack).
I then put my scrap wood to secure the pieces on both sides of the Luggage carrier with clamps. Luggage racks are on the short side, so this step allowed me to determine the height I wanted for the finished table.
be larger or smaller by the movement of the scrap-wood pieces, which are either closer together or further apart.
Once I had determined my desired height it was a simple matter of gluing and drilling the piece of wood.
next I cut the forms down to the size I needed. I decided I didn't want toMy door is 25" long and 18" wide, and my molding pieces are ¼ " thick. I cut two pieces of molding up to 25" and the other two pieces to 18½". So the two end pieces overlap the two side pieces.
Next, everything got a quick paint job. I wiped the carrier with some mild detergent and then gave it a light sanding. Some black satin spray paint made short work with everything – Luggage rack on the bottom of the door/drawer and injection molding parts.
After the bottom of the door/tray was sufficiently dry it was time to cut the paper in place. With my brush with foam I covered the entire door with a good layer of Mod-smorgasbord.
I filled my sink with water and the paper gave a quick dip.
(note: Dunking the paper is completely optional. I have found that it helps reduce the trouble with bubbles, and so on. The paper I used was quite thick and easily stood up to the water – you would want to test each paper you use, to ensure that it would hold, before the Start).
After the releasing of excess water run-off, I put my damp paper on the door/drawer and began smoothing it out with my two wet hands and a brayer.
Once the paper was dry enough (a few hours) I have a sealing layer of Mod smorgasbord of over the top.
This is VERY important. In order to protect the paper from the Envirotex coating, it needs to be completely closed, so make sure you have covered every inch and gave him plenty of time to dry. I allow the seal coat to dry overnight, just to be on the safe side.
After the drawer dried I had to cut with a sharp knife, the supernatant removed paper.
next, I attached the molding to the sides. I ran a thin bead of glue along the side of the door/drawer, and then with the injection molding with small finishing nails (I have an electric nailer, but this is easily done by hand – I was just in a hurry).
I also glued and nailed together in the corners to ensure a snug fit. Now it was time for the Envirotex. I've been using masking tape to seal the all the edges.
Envirotex is a liquid and when you pour it, it is each channel, so that, if it austretten a gap between your forms and your professional it is.
The tape provides extra insurance, drips or disasters. Also make sure you cover your work surface with a thick layer of newspaper or something.
you have to work quickly, if Envirotex, if you are looking for a large area like this, so I'm afraid I don't have time for pictures. It is easy to work with, just make sure you follow the manufacturer's directions closely.
Once I poured just set them aside in a dust free(ish) area and let it heal. After four hours I removed the tape and did a little touch up on the nail-holes with a Sharpie.
I have also re my staple gun to attached some cloth strips on the Luggage carrier so that it stays open when I remove the spoon.
And now I have a heat-resistant and absolutely waterproof side table. To break if I want it, it is only a matter of folding up. I decided not to add handles to my DIY-end-table, but if you’d like to, it would be a simple matter of holes in the side and diving.
This DIY end table is a pretty simple project and I hope you liked it. If you have any questions or if I skipped something, don't hesitate to ask – I will monitor the thread and get back to you as soon as possible.